In Good Taste: Tender hearted
Globe artichokes (Cynara scolymus) surely must be one of the most attractive additions to a vege patch, or if you don't have a lot of room, they are just as happy situated amongst the flowerbeds. Just remember that they are heavy feeders and may inhibit their neighbours' growth. Star attractions with their silvery grey, rather prehistoric-looking leaves, they have large thistle-like flowers if allowed to go to seed, adding still more interest. I prefer the spring artichokes to the second batch that appears in the autumn. Spring artichokes seem sweeter and have very little hairy choke, if any. They also marry so well with other tender greens making their annual debut at this time-broad beans, asparagus and peas.
Harvest artichokes when still small. They should feel firm and compact when lightly squeezed. To prepare, put a large pot (not aluminium) of water on the stove. Salt well and squeeze in the juice from one whole lemon. Add the squeezed halves to the water as well, plus one bay leaf, and bring to a simmer. Working quickly, as the cut surface will discolour if not immediately added to the acidulated water, peel back the outer artichoke leaves until you reach the paler ones inside. Cut off a third of the pointed end and slice in half lengthwise. Remove any hairy choke with a teaspoon. Cook for 10 minutes, or until they test tender when pricked with a knife. Drain (discarding the lemon and bay) and then drizzle with some good olive oil. They are now ready to be added to a frittata, risotto, blended into a creamy sauce for pasta, grilled on the BBQ until golden and smoky, and added to any number of spring salads. To truly enjoy the unique flavour of this giant thistle, simple is often best.
Potato and Artichoke Salad
Cut four potatoes into chunks (or better still, use eight new season baby potatoes, halved), place into a saucepan of salted water and add one bay leaf. Bring to a simmer and when half cooked, add the juice of one lemon to the water. Add four artichokes peeled, de-fluffed and halved, with the tough pointy end removed. Continue to cook until both vegetables are tender. Drain and discard the bay leaf and the lemon.
Make a small amount of gremolata (lemon zest, finely chopped parsley and some crushed garlic). Add some good extra virgin olive oil and mix in a large bowl. Toss the potatoes and artichokes through the flavoured oil and season well. Serve warm or at room temperature. A handful of Kalamata olives is a good addition.
A quick and easy dip to whip up at the spur of the moment with simple pantry ingredients is this bean and artichoke dip. Either use your own grilled artichokes or good-quality bought ones. Make sure they aren't preserved in just vinegar, or the sharpness may put you off for life.
Canellini Bean and Artichoke Dip
1 tin of cannellini beans (approx 400g) drained, or use 1 cup of your own cooked beans
8 artichoke quarters, char grilled
1 clove of garlic, crushed
juice of one lemon
salt and pepper
about 50ml extra virgin olive oil
Italian parsley, finely chopped for serving
Put all the ingredients into a kitchen whizz and blend, adding olive oil until it reaches a dip consistency. Refrigerate until 30 minutes before serving. Stir through the parsley, place in an attractive bowl and serve with grissini (bread sticks). Also good served on crostini.
If you still aren't sold on the attributes of this vegetable, enjoyed by Italian cooks since the 15th century, then maybe its aphrodisiac qualities will appeal. Bartolomeo Boldo, a doctor of medicine, wrote in 1576, "The artichoke has the virtue of provoking Venus in both Men and Women and for Women of making them more desirable and helping Men who are in these matters rather tardy."
Fiona Feasey
