Tex Mex and the tortilla
In the Penguin Companion to Food, the tortilla is described as round, thin, unleavened bread made from ground maize, a basic food of Mesoamerica. It is not known for how many millennia this has been a staple; but when the conquistadors arrived in the New World in the late 15th century, they discovered that the inhabitants made flat corn breads. The native Nahuatl name for these was tlaxcalli and the Spanish gave them the name “tortilla”.
Our local supermarket stocks quite a large range of tortillas, and you can even choose from low-fat, gluten-free, wholemeal, corn or rice flour, so there’s something for everyone.
The only preparation tortillas need before filling and eating is to be warmed through, either in the microwave, oven or BBQ. Instructions are on the pack. Fillings can be as varied as cooked shredded meat or chicken, refried beans, grated cheese, shredded lettuce, crumbled chorizo sausage, fish, salsa, guacamole, onion, vegetables and sour cream. Two typical additions are salsa roja—onions, garlic, and a red chilli all roasted together on a grill and ground together with salt and herbs, such as coriander or oregano. The other is salsa verde (green tomatoes and the same ingredients as before, treated in the same way).
Recently I have had the opportunity to cook with the Mexican green tomato “tomatillo” which obviously has no trouble growing here in the Bay, and what fun it has been. The word tomatillo means “small tomato”, and like other physalis fruits (which include the cape gooseberry) it grows inside a papery husk, which must be peeled off before cooking. They have a delicate and slightly acid flavour (when raw they seem reminiscent of an apple), and cooking for a few minutes enhances their flavour. To make a quick green salsa to accompany any Mexican meal, just peel off the papery husks from 3 tomatillos (or use green tomatoes). Place in a pot with 1 green chilli (medium hot) and cook together for 10 minutes. Drain and cool. Place in a food processor with 1 clove of crushed garlic, 1 small onion that has been roughly chopped, and 1 tablespoon of fresh coriander. Add the juice of 1 lime if using green tomatoes. Pulse until you have a fairly smooth sauce with a few chunks still visible. Season with salt and serve in a bowl to be spooned over any tortilla filling. This is particularly nice with fish.
For a chicken filling you can quickly make the recipe below. It feeds a crowd, especially with the additions of a salsa, some shredded lettuce, grated cheese and guacamole. This is just as good with tacos (which are simply tortillas that have been deep fried!).
Cowboy chicken and beans
400g chicken breasts (skin removed and thinly sliced)
2 tablespoons of oil
1 onion, finely diced
1 red capsicum, finely diced
1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon of ground cumin
400g tin of chilli beans
Salt and pepper
Sour cream to serve
Fresh coriander
Heat the oil in a frying pan and brown the chicken slices until golden. Do this in batches to avoid crowding the pan. Remove and set aside. Add the onion and red capsicum to the pan and cook gently until very soft. Add the cumin and cook another minute before adding the chilli beans and returning the chicken. Cook slowly until the sauce has reduced and is thick—about 5 minutes. Season to taste. Place in a deep bowl and put a blob of sour cream on the top along with a good sprinkle of fresh coriander.
Since we seem to be in the midst of an economic crisis, you too can take heart from these words from the Everything Tex-Mex Cookbook: “There’s no better way to travel without leaving your home, than to learn a new cuisine.”
Fiona Feasey
