Good as Green
Silverbeet and spinach, interchangeable in so many ways, have similar nutritional and cooking qualities, and both come from the goosefoot family (Chenopodiaceae). Though we associate beets with roots, silverbeet (Beta vulgaris) is in fact a leaf beet. Both silverbeet and spinach (Spinacia oleracea) are best cooked in just the water that clings to their leaves after washing. Many of us grew up with a neat green row of silverbeet in our garden instead of the more refined spinach, and I’ve actually come to prefer the coarser taste and texture. Even in the middle of winter, that row of hardy greens meant numerous choices for dinner even if the cupboard was bare.
The simplest of things can be inspirational. In some recipes spinach is by far the better option, especially when it is to be added at the last minute and allowed just to wilt before serving, as in an Asian broth or a delicate risotto. There is a virtuous feeling that goes with eating something this vibrant and healthy. Popeye certainly knew what he was on about, as this leafy veg is full of iron and calcium, though due to its oxalic acid content, both these minerals are less easily absorbed by the body.
Silverbeet can withstand a longer cooking time, its flavour allowed to meld with the other ingredients as it cooks, as in a vegetable and bean soup or a potato and goat cheese gratin. In the late seventies, warm spinach/silverbeet salads were all the rage. Two in particular come to mind…sautéed chicken livers scattered straight from the pan along with the juices onto a plate of green leaves. The other was this one of Digby Laws’. Today I might substitute some crumbled goat cheese (Averill Turnbull’s “Provence” would be perfect) for the cream cheese. If you’re going all out fat-wise, then use a firm Philadelphia-style cream cheese, as a low fat version simply won’t work.
Digby’s silverbeet salad with bacon, almonds
and cream cheese
1 bunch of young, very fresh silverbeet leaves
(or use spinach)
4 large rashers of bacon
50g slivered almonds
125g firm cream cheese or goat cheese crumbled
or cut into small pieces.
Dressing
50ml extra virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons of wine vinegar
1 clove of garlic crushed
Ground black pepper
1 tablespoon of bacon fat
Wash the silverbeet, remove the white stalks and tear the green leaves into salad-sized pieces. Place into a large salad bowl. Grill the bacon until crisp. Remove 1 tablespoon of fat and reserve for the dressing. Crumble the bacon. In the remaining fat, cook the almonds, being careful not to burn them (happens in a second). Use a slotted spoon to remove and add the almonds to the bacon. Make the dressing by combining all ingredients together in a jar and shaking well. Just before serving, toss the leaves in the dressing. You may not need it all. Strew with the still-warm bacon and almonds and scatter over the cheese. Serve immediately. Due to the cheese and bacon, this salad may not need any extra salt.
Silverbeet and spinach that have been steamed until wilted can then be stirred through pasta or rice dishes, creamy mashed potatoes, mixed with ricotta and used to stuff pasta shells or cannelloni, stirred into soups, mixed with eggs and cheese for a pie filling, piled onto toasted ciabatta and topped with a poached eggs (perfect meal for one), used as a side dish when reheated in olive oil with a crushed clove of garlic, a sprinkle of both currants and toasted pine nuts.
This tart from the River Café (1991) has the best ever pastry—sooo buttery and light, and it combines beautifully with the filling ingredients. More of a tart than a quiche; the filling is not so eggy. Perfect for lunch with a simple salad.
Silverbeet, crème fraiche and thyme tart
Pasta Frolla (pastry)
2¾ cups plain flour
½ teaspoon of salt
250g butter, chilled and cut into pieces
Water to mix (about 2 tablespoons)
Filling
1 red onion, peeled and finely chopped
3 cloves of garlic, crushed
A handful of fresh thyme, including stalks, leaves and flowers
1 tablespoon of butter
750g silverbeet or spinach, stalks removed, washed well
and chopped roughly
2 eggs plus 1 egg yolk, beaten lightly
6 tablespoons of crème fraiche
Salt and pepper
A large handful of kalamata olives
To make the pastry, place all ingredients into a food processor and process until mix just starts to come together. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
Roll out pastry to fit a 30cm tart tin. Prick the base and bake blind in a preheated oven at 190°C for 20 minutes or until the pastry is golden. Remove from the oven.
Filling: Sauté the onion, garlic and most of the thyme in the butter very slowly, until the onion is transparent. Steam the silverbeet until wilted. Drain and cool. Spread the silverbeet over the pastry base and cover with the onion mixture. Combine the eggs with the crème fraiche, salt and pepper and pour over the onion. Scatter the olives and remaining thyme over the top. Bake in a pre-heated oven for 20 minutes or until cooked and the top is puffed and golden.
Fiona Feasey
