Earthworms
While we rest up and keep warm during the winter months, perhaps we can spare a thought for the unsung helpers living beneath the soil in our garden—the humble earthworms.
Earthworms are one of the most important organisms in the soil. They play a huge role in improving soil structure and fertility.
Amazingly there are about 200 different species living in New Zealand, and most are native. A dozen were introduced by the new settlers from Europe and it’s these species that provide the greatest benefit to our productive soils.
Earthworms occupy three distinct zones within the soil. There’s the soil-surface-dwelling or compost-preferring species such as the dung worm, Lumbricus rubellus, and the tiger worm, Eisenia foetida. They like to eat rich organic matter such as decaying plant roots, shoots, dung, leaves and food scraps. Then there’s the topsoil-dwelling species like the grey worm, Aporrectodea caliginosa, which is the most common earthworm found in New Zealand. These guys live in the top 20 to 30cm of the soil. They burrow through, ingesting it along with organic matter and producing earthworm casts. These casts help to hold the soil together and provide nutrient-rich food for microorganisms and plants. The channels made by burrowing also improve the soil’s aeration.
Lastly there’s the subsoil-dwelling species, or deep burrowers like Aporrectodea longa, which make permanent burrows in the soil. They forage on the soil surface for food such as grass clippings and drag it down into their burrows for consumption. Their burrows help considerably with soil drainage.
So, depending on what earthworms you wish to attract, their only requirement is a good supply of the right organic matter in the right place.
Next time you’re digging in your garden, take time to notice if there’s lots of worms and what they look like. They are a key indicator of a healthy active soil.
It is wise to encourage more of these awesome creatures as they will help to maintain your soil for you, and as a consequence you’ll have healthier plants too.
Fruit care
Watch stored fruit for spoils.
Plant fruits and nuts, eg chestnut, in sizeable holes with compost and ensure good drainage. Firm well and stake.
Spray stonefruit and pipfruit with cutonic copper vs bacterial diseases once leaves fall, or use liquid seaweed as a tonic.
Plant perennial herbs and flowers around the orchard to attract beneficial insects.
Prune fruit trees; avoid big cuts in winter.
Clear grass and other weeds away from fruits and remulch with woody compost.
Apply fertilisers to fruits, eg rock phosphate, lime, boron and wood ash.
Vegetable Care
Cloche for frost protection and soil warming.
Prepare ground for early potatoes and other early spring crops.
Liquid fertilise in the morning once a week.
Weed and mulch (eg seagrass around cabbages).
Stay observant for pests and diseases. Check under rocks or wood edging for slugs and snails.
Plant rhubarb and asparagus later this month into well-prepared beds.
Hothouse
Prepare propagation area for main sowing, eg make seed-raising mix, gather seed, etc.
Prepare beds for early hothouse crops like Siberian tomatoes.
Check out seed catalogues and get inspired for spring. Plan garden cropping and spring rotation.
For transplanting: 5th August. Leafy greens (winter spinach, lettuce, endive, cabbages, Chinese cabbage and onions). Early tomatoes, peppers, eggplants (best 3rd August) with bottom heat. Flowers, eg stocks.
Sow direct: 5th August. Radish, spring onions, carrots, beetroot (under cloche). Peas (under cloche) (best 3rd August). Flowers, eg cornflower.
Plant: 3rd - 15th August. Late garlic, salad greens, spinach, cabbages, spinach beet. Flowers, eg divided perennials.
General Garden Care
Remove overcrowded trees and shrubs. Prune trees for greater sun on edible garden.
Plant trees and shrubs.
Clean and fix garden tools. Make a tub with used cooking oil and sand/sawdust mix to dip tools in after use. Rest and stay warm.
Sol Morgan, GroWise Consultancy
