Cheesemaking duo “semi-retire” to the Bay
Gabrielle Kervella and Alan Cockman will be running three workshops on the basics of making cheese. The first will be held on 26 September.
She put in the hard early years of perfecting the product, and he came along and complemented that with organic land health, using biodynamic methods and his own experience in the dairy industry. Over the next 10 or so years in Australia, Gabrielle Kervella and Alan Cockman combined their passions for making the finest of Australia’s organic goat’s cheeses.
Now living here in Golden Bay on two hectares in East Takaka, they still keep a few Saanen goats but are more interested in sharing their considerable skills and knowledge.
“We are apparently semi-retired these days, which means among other things we’re running hands-on cheesemaking workshops rather than commercially making the cheeses,” says Alan.
The first course begins on September 26 and covers the basics. (See advertisement in Learning section.)
“We’ll be focusing first and foremost on the safety and hygiene of making cheeses with raw milk,” says Alan. At present in New Zealand it is almost impossible to commercially sell cheese made with unpasteurised milk, be it cow’s or goat’s. However Gabrielle and Alan realise there is huge interest in householders making their own boutique cheeses.
The first course will cover many types of cheese plus yoghurt and fermented milk products. Included is a cheese appreciation section, ripening and storage, basic microbiology and plenty of time for questions and discussion. They have timed the second October course to coincide with fresh milk production from people’s own goats and house cows.
As suppliers of cultures and rennets, all part of the cheesemaking process, they want to keep it simple, fun and safe for cheesemakers using their own produce. They are keen to encourage innovation within the bounds of a clear process.
Gabrielle was recently honoured with a Lifetime Achievement Award by the Organic Farmers Association of Australia. This recognises her years of trial and error, taking basic cheesemaking skills, learned in France, and adapting them to Australian conditions in the small town of Gidgegannup in Western Australia, northeast of Perth. It applauds her long journey from tossing out buckets of failed curds to supplying her product to some of the finest outlets in Australia and further afield to Paris, London, New York and beyond at the request of top chefs. Alan and Gabrielle are also experienced educators in the cheesemaking process, having given an in-depth series of lectures throughout Australia and other parts of the world.
Gabrielle has been credited by Australian cheese retailer, author and broadcaster Will Studd for putting goat’s cheese on the culinary map of Australia, and many magazine and newspaper column inches have bewailed her departure. The decision to sell up and move is a loss for Australia but it is definitely a gain for Golden Bay. Alan says he sees himself as “slipping in on Gabrielle’s coat tails” and spoke about his new business, Farm Fixed.
“I’ll fix just about anything and everything from repairs of broken machinery, tractors and even lawnmowers to generators, and do light engineering jobs” he says. He has a varied background of electrical work, mechanics and producing dairy products, plus an in-depth knowledge of the practical application of biodynamic farming methods. These are based on indications given by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner.
Alan also does consultancy work using his skills to help people gain optimum health for their land. And he’s willing to guide any aspiring commercial cheese producers.
“I’m not pushing the biodynamic process per se but see it as another tool in getting land in balance. As many growers will agree, a balanced soil is necessary to grow healthy plants and animals.”
Jane Bellerby
