Early summer
When the soil is happy, so are the plants. Photo: Sol Morgan
Usually at this time of year I’m trying to conserve as much water as possible for the garden. Many of us are on water tanks, so summer watering is often a luxury. However, this year the rain is still coming down, though that may not last. I will keep collecting water in drums and buckets and using bathroom water in dry periods.
Now that the soil is moist and young seedlings have become established since main planting time, it’s a great time to put on lots of mulch. My favourite is seagrass and/or seaweed as it adds valuable micronutrients and other compounds that help build healthy soil. Other mulches worth mentioning are grass clippings, straw from calf sheds, rotted baleage/silage, and young weeds cut while weeding. All these mulches conserve soil moisture, provide food for soil organisms, and improve soil structure. And when the soil is happy, so are the plants. I first use what’s available on my land and then look elsewhere if there’s not enough.
It’s critical to stay observant about the health and growth of young plants at this stage. Many crops benefit from supplementary feeding with liquid fertilisers like comfrey or seaweed brews. Deficiencies can often be remedied this way.
Weakened growth is susceptible to pest and disease attack. Old leaves that show signs of disease (often merely fungi etc, starting to recycle dying plant material) are best removed (eg, bottom leaves on tomatoes). In serious outbreaks, either remove the affected plant or spray with garlic and pyrethrum, or neem oil. There are many other sprays to choose from but many have other detrimental effects on soil or beneficial insects.
Other plants need training or additional support. Tomatoes need regular lateral removal and tying to stakes or winding around string lines. Cucumbers, climbing beans and peas also twine well up strings. Ensure stakes are pushed well into the ground. I use a crowbar to make decent holes. Stakes for tomatoes, etc, are tied together to form a structure secure enough to support the plants and trusses of fruit. I like to mix plants for diversity: try tomatoes, cucumbers and beans together.
Fruit care
Net strawberries and other berryfruits, plum and cherry trees.
Check moisture levels under young trees. Water if necessary.
Thin fruit of pears, apples, etc.
Summer prune water shoots, suckers and new growths contrary to your desired tree shape. It’s especially important to get young trees pruned to encourage the development of its main form or structure, ie open vase shape or centre leader.
Prune grapes back to five to six leaves after fruit bunches.
Foliar-feed fruits with seaweed, compost tea, worm juice and/or fish.
Spray aphid and passionvine hopper infestations with neem oil.
Spray Bt on berries vs caterpillar moth damage.
Watch for silverleaf fungus on fruits, particularly stonefruit. Get trichodowels (vinevax) and insert in trunks.
Herb care
Harvest for drying (eg oregano) or trim to stimulate new growth.
Sow most annual herbs outdoors (like basil and coriander) for continuous harvest.
Vegetable care
Harvest rocambole garlic now. Softneck garlic is ready for harvest when the tops flop over. Sun dry for few days and store in a dry, airy place.
Harvest globe artichoke buds regularly to ensure ongoing harvest.
Sow and plant crops like beans and salads successively for ongoing supply. Sow/plant more zucchini too.
Hoe unmulched beds to disturb soil pests like cutworms and weeds.
Keep mounding potatoes and yams or mulch well. Harvest new potatoes.
Spray Bt on brassicas to protect against cabbage white butterfly.
Watch for shield bugs and remove. Spray with garlic and pyrethrum when small if numbers are high.
Keep planting flowers for diversity and beauty.
Feed asparagus with compost and mulch. Stake fronds.
Hothouse
Add flowers and herbs, especially basil around tomatoes. Keep well ventilated, well watered and well fed. Hang yellow sticky cards for whitefly.
For transplanting: All seeds 9 December. Leeks, spring onions and leafy greens (celery, spinach, spinach beet, silverbeet, lettuce, endive, cabbages, kale, Brussels sprouts) (also 14 & 24 Dec). Cauliflower, broccoli and flowers, eg strawflower, marigold, aster (also 12-13 Dec).
Sow direct: All seeds 9 December. Salads and spring onions (also 14 & 24 Dec). Corn, zucchini, pumpkin/squash and cucumbers, French and climbing beans (also 16-17 Dec). Carrots, beetroot, radish, parsnip (also 18-20 Dec). Flowers, eg cosmos, zinnia, ageratum (also 12-13 Dec).
Plant: Best 27 Nov–10 Dec and 24 Dec–6 Jan. Salad greens, spinach, cabbages, celery, leeks, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, broccoli, tomatoes, late cucumbers, late peppers, zucchini and late potatoes. Flowers, eg gaillardia.
General garden care:
Mow and use clippings in compost, etc.
Keep cutting comfrey leaves and top up liquid fertiliser drums.
Make and turn compost. Cover to conserve moisture.
Prune perennials and shrubs after flowering, eg camellia.
Trim hedges.
Sol Morgan, GroWise Consultancy