Bringing the bayou home
Cajun Spiced Chicken with Black Bean and Corn Salsa. Photo: Fiona Feasey
Do you remember the Cajun cooking guru Paul Prudhomme? I saw a photo of this man once, sitting on a stool, parked up at the stove as he fried some fish in a pan. Nothing too unusual about this I suppose, except that there was absolutely no sign of the stool upon which he sat.
A large man, born in 1940, Mr Prudhomme made a big bang in the world of cuisine, using spices and fish together and cooking until it became what was described as blackened (not, however, burned!). Some joke that this dish came about because the cook simply “forgot” the fish and allowed it to burn and it actually tasted really good; however, this doesn’t seem possible with a chef sitting beside the stove.
Cajun cuisine is a style of cooking named for the French-speaking Acadian or “Cajun” immigrants who were deported by the British from Canada to Louisiana. Now, Louisiana people can handle some spice. They have restaurants that go by the name of Cracklin’ (due to the fatty pieces of pork that have been rendered till the skin is super-crisp) and a local aftershave that goes by the name Tobacco. The words shrimp, pecan and crawfish are run-of-the-mill there, and many Americans consider Louisiana as the capital of Cajun cuisine.
Cajun fish cooking (in particular) hit the big time in the 80s, though as with many 80s fashions, this dish appears to have gone out of fashion (which probably means it’s just about to have a revival, and the next new thing will be the “Return of the Cajun or Blackened Fish”).
In the meantime Paul Prudhomme has been broadening not only his own belt, but also his empire of spice products. You can now purchase a multi-pack of five different spice mixtures to suit any meat, chicken or fish in need of some seasoning. As he says in his logo, “Life’s too short for dull food”.
Now there are a few things to remember when cooking Cajun fish, the first being that unless you have a really good extractor fan then you may set off every smoke alarm in town. The barbecue works well, and as long as you have it hot and the fish is not too overly seasoned, you can cook it straight on the skillet without adding any oil. Make sure the fish cooks till well coloured, but do not burn it. Wipe the skillet with paper towels between each batch.
To make the night one to remember, and to get in that Louisiana feelin’, dress the table with a big check cloth and put on some Cajun music. Serve the fish with a green salad, a new potato salad and a black bean and corn salsa.
Cajun Spice Mix for Fish
2 teaspoons of sea salt
2 teaspoons of dried thyme
1 teaspoon of dried oregano
1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper
1 teaspoon of sweet paprika
1 teaspoon of fennel seeds, crushed
1 teaspoon of ground black pepper
4 fillets of fish. I used cod, but any flattish fish will work.
2 tablespoons of olive oil
Mix all the spices and herbs together. Brush each side of each fillet of fish with the oil and sprinkle with the spice mixture. Place on a plate and cover. Keep refrigerated until ready to cook. Heat the BBQ flat plate well and cook the fillets on each side until golden and aromatic and only just cooked through. Serve with the black bean and corn salsa. This can work just as well using the convenience of tinned beans and corn, (preferably organic), or of course you can cook both from scratch. If you plan to cook your own black beans you will need to soak them in water overnight.
Black Bean and Corn Salsa
1 tin of black beans
1 tin of whole kernel corn
1 red capsicum, cored and finely diced
1 teaspoon of Kaitaia Fire (or other chilli sauce to taste)
½ cup of chopped fresh coriander
½ red onion, finely diced
1 avocado finely diced
juice of ½ a lime
1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil
Mix all ingredients together in a bowl and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature for serving. For the new potato salad, boil some Jersey Benne potatoes (or the like) in a pot of salted water until just cooked through. Drain and set aside to cool. Chop into similar-sized pieces if necessary.
When cool, stir through some mayonnaise mixed with a teaspoon of Dijon mustard, 2 stalks of finely chopped celery, 1 bunch of chopped spring onions, and some quartered soft-boiled eggs. Combine gently and place in a bowl. Serve at room temperature.
Fiona Feasey
