Summer essentials
“Grand aioli” is a traditional meal in France. Photo: Fiona Feasey
Given that we seem to have experienced more wind than hot, sunny days so far this summer, it is with some optimism that I will mention these two summer essentials: aioli and ice cream. But not together, of course.
A recent, lengthy discussion about aioli with a new friend Lindsay from Geraldine reminded me of this old favourite, which in recent years has been replaced by all sorts of other trendy interlopers like spicy Romesco, rocket pesto, and anchovy mayo. Yet in the summer months, aioli seems to go with just about everything. And when camping, it’s a summer essential.
Heralding from the South of France, aioli brings the flavour of Provence to any table. It’s made using the same method as for mayonnaise, and the French traditionally use a marble mortar and wooden pestle. You too can make it this way, but the more modern way of using a hand-held beater makes fast work of this task. Recipes often call for using just olive oil; however, unless you have a particularly mild one, I would recommend a mixture of olive oil and grapeseed oil, or the oil can become the predominant flavour when it should be the garlic that takes centre stage. If you like more of a bite, simply add more garlic cloves at the beginning. Next time you head off to the beach or the bach, make room in the chilly bin for a jar of this divine garlicky mayonnaise, and use it on everything from cold poached chicken to a radish plucked fresh from the garden.
Aioli
5 fat cloves of new season garlic, peeled
2 drops of water
½ cup of olive oil
½ cup of grapeseed oil
2 free-range egg yolks at room temperature
1 to 2 teaspoons of water
1 teaspoon of lemon juice or wine vinegar
Begin by crushing the garlic and a little sea salt into a fine paste. Place into a bowl. Add the drops of water before incorporating the egg yolk. Now start adding the oil drop by drop with the beaters running, and continue until all the oil has been used. Then acidulate with the lemon juice or wine vinegar. By adding this at the last minute, you will retain the yellowness of the yolks, whereas adding it earlier can blanch the colour. Place into a container, cover and refrigerate.
This sauce is now ready to be used in any number of ways. Potato salad, crayfish, eggs, homemade chips, smoked fish...close your eyes and imagine the sun-drenched South of France. I once read an article where chefs were asked which single food item they would take to a deserted island. One said a jar of aioli, which does conjure up a rather idyllic picture of fish cooked over an open fire, flaked with the fingers and dipped in the sauce.
“Grand aioli” is a traditional meal in France, often served to a crowd. A meal in one, it incorporates food from the land and sea, accompanied by an aioli sauce. In France, the aioli would be served in the traditional mortar placed on the table, the remaining food displayed on platters for guests to help themselves. These platters would traditionally hold boiled green beans, waxy new potatoes, some halved hard-boiled eggs, poached fish, asparagus, boiled beetroot, artichoke hearts, salt cod and tomatoes.
The other summer essential is ice cream, or semifreddo. Semifreddo means semi-frozen, so refers to a softer texture than traditional ice cream. Easy to make and have on hand, this is a cooling and refreshing way to end any summer meal. Best of all, it is meringue-based, and doesn’t need to be stirred during freezing.
Chocolate and hazelnut semifreddo
125g dark chocolate
100g dark chocolate extra, coarsely chopped
2 teaspoons of vanilla essence
600ml cream
125g hazelnuts, toasted, skins removed
and coarsely ground
1 tablespoon of good quality cocoa
2 eggs, separated
175g caster sugar
Melt the first amount of chocolate. Whip the cream and vanilla to soft peaks and fold in the hazelnuts, cocoa and extra chopped chocolate. Whisk the egg yolks with 2 tablespoons of sugar until pale and creamy. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form and slowly add the remaining sugar one spoonful at a time. The whites should end up thick and glossy. Stir the melted chocolate into the egg yolks and combine. Fold through the whipped cream and finally the meringue. Turn into a freezer container, individual moulds, or a lined loaf tin, and freeze for 12 hours. Just before serving, remove from the freezer and allow to soften slightly before turning out and slicing. A few fresh berries on the side, and you have an elegant desert for all the family.
Fiona Feasey
